Re: The complexity of operation...

[MadMike1024]

When released, we believe these GP40-2s will be the most realistic diesel locomotives in the game. You will have to switch circuit breakers, close knife switches, and walk down the catwalk to start them up.

Emergency brake applications will result in penalty resets. There are many additional realistic type events.

For our sanity and yours, will you PLEASE read the manuals and instructions before attempting operations? We will support the model as best we can, but 100 "Why won't my loco run?" questions serves none of us well.



Thanks from the VRC team.

[thecanadianrail]

Well technically speaking the 844 is "in game" already even though its not available yet so I do believe that one would be just a tad more realistic but if you are only speaking of diesel locomotives (I fixed that thanks - MM1K) then you are most likely correct....but that's besides the point of your post. Was anything included when building the engine to simulate the engine heating up and being "chocked out" from going through longer tunnels like the ones in the west such as what the D&RGW and BN faced in their mountain divisions?

[PapaXpress]

No. We could do something like that if the game could tell us how long the tunnel was.

[Chacal]

Tell us about the important things, like the toilet in the nose compartment.

[PapaXpress]

Um... they do not flush.

Though completely possible to simulate, I really don't think this adds to the model.

I hope I don't have to add this to the FAQ.

[thecanadianrail]

Tell us about the important things, like the toilet in the nose compartment.

Well, for those of you who are uninitiated, a toilet is a device that assists humans in disposing of wastes. It's usually oval shaped, about 18" tall (that's .4572m for those of you that use that Umperial Meter system), and is made of ceramic, plastic, or stainless steel. It can be hooked into permanent plumbing, or for temporary waste storage, made to connect to a gravity fed box. The later is pretty much the case for locomotives, but with the assistance of a hand operated pump that feeds water into the waste repository bowl and assists in it's removal (we call that "flushing"). The waste is them removed from the temporary storage area by an external device called a "Honey Wagon" (VRC stock #5150), which is then emptied into the nearest sewer drain.

Using is pretty straight forward. For locomotives, which are usually moving, it would probably be best to utilize the flip-up seat and sit down on the bowl, rather than taking a chance on getting urine (that's pee) on your forehead. Once your trousers have been removed and you have a good seal, let it go. After you are done, use the provided tissue (if none, you have a hard decision to make), clean yourself up, regain your trousers, and go about your business.

Got all that, or shall I provide diagrams and charts?

I don't quite understand, may you please provide said charts and diagrams

[BNSFdude]

Tell us about the important things, like the toilet in the nose compartment.

Well, for those of you who are uninitiated, a toilet is a device that assists humans in disposing of wastes. It's usually oval shaped, about 18" tall (that's .4572m for those of you that use that Umperial Meter system), and is made of ceramic, plastic, or stainless steel. It can be hooked into permanent plumbing, or for temporary waste storage, made to connect to a gravity fed box. The later is pretty much the case for locomotives, but with the assistance of a hand operated pump that feeds water into the waste repository bowl and assists in it's removal (we call that "flushing"). The waste is them removed from the temporary storage area by an external device called a "Honey Wagon" (VRC stock #5150), which is then emptied into the nearest sewer drain.

Using is pretty straight forward. For locomotives, which are usually moving, it would probably be best to utilize the flip-up seat and sit down on the bowl, rather than taking a chance on getting urine (that's pee) on your forehead. Once your trousers have been removed and you have a good seal, let it go. After you are done, use the provided tissue (if none, you have a hard decision to make), clean yourself up, regain your trousers, and go about your business.

Got all that, or shall I provide diagrams and charts?

Instructions weren't clear enough, I got my shwang stuck in the refrigerator.

[Chacal]

Will there be keyboard shortcuts for these functions?

[Ericmopar]

I found this video... It might be helpful...

[PapaXpress]

At least we are still on topic...

[DrewG]

These charts and diagrams seem quite needed, I don't even want to think how the refrigerator got tangled into Anthony's bathroom escapade.

[imnew]

Priceless!

On a serious note though, I really look forward to firing up that sweet GP40-2

[BNSFdude]

!*roll-laugh*! Priceless!

On a serious note though, I really look forward to firing up that sweet GP40-2

Even the model makes me appreciate ZTRs SmartStart systems! Just bail the air off and listen to a beep for a minute or so. Haha.

[awaken1977]

I'm following startup procedure described in the manual,
or in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-JxpYCPJZg

But, engine dies shortly after startup

all fuses in the black field set to on;
isolation switch in startup mode, when I try to set it to "Run" mode, alarm sounds and red light goes on (battery charge)
am I missed something?

[bpetit]

How long are you priming the engine? I try to prime between 14-18 seconds. Also are your 3 switches on the the stand on, Engine run, Gen Field and Fuel Pump?