JohnS wrote:Stretch braking or power braking is what you described. The bailing off answer is YES bail off if you are pulling against the Train brakes. In GCOR (general code of operating rules) I've seen many diagrams that have shown the train to Stop no less than 400ft from a stop signal. I haven't read anything specific to distance but I'm sure it's in the Train Handling book for each railroad. I was always taught to give yourself plenty of room for any errors that could come up.
JohnS wrote:It's been a while since I paid attention to the gauges in detail but after you bail off the first application each application afterwards will need to be bailed off. The brake cylinder pressure will apply to the appropriate pressure in regards to the brake pipe. So if you go to full application after you bail off your original application the brake cylinder will only apply the pressure difference not the full application. It's really hard to explain it with out looking at the gauges. sorry I can't be mopre clearer.
_o_OOOO_oo-Kanawha wrote:JohnS wrote:It's been a while since I paid attention to the gauges in detail but after you bail off the first application each application afterwards will need to be bailed off. The brake cylinder pressure will apply to the appropriate pressure in regards to the brake pipe. So if you go to full application after you bail off your original application the brake cylinder will only apply the pressure difference not the full application. It's really hard to explain it with out looking at the gauges. sorry I can't be mopre clearer.
That's how real locomotive brakes operate? Just as I expected, the locomotive brake cylinder pressure is only relative to the changes in brake pipe pressure between subsequent bail offs.
I thought I saw this behaviour in the TSW:CSX brake cylinder gauge.
_o_OOOO_oo-Kanawha wrote:I essentially need to pull the train right under the signal, since that is where the scenario is called complete. In the prototype, is there a regulation as to where the train must come to a halt in front of a STOP aspect, esp. on a down grade? I am talking about Rockwood here, and I mostly fail because I overrun the STOP home signal or come to a halt way off.
ex-railwayman wrote:_o_OOOO_oo-Kanawha wrote:I essentially need to pull the train right under the signal, since that is where the scenario is called complete. In the prototype, is there a regulation as to where the train must come to a halt in front of a STOP aspect, esp. on a down grade? I am talking about Rockwood here, and I mostly fail because I overrun the STOP home signal or come to a halt way off.
Well, that surely depends on where the scenario author has decided it stops, doesn't it? In essence, all train/loco drivers are different, it also depends on what locomotive you are driving, in Britain and Europe we may have better visibilty in our cabs, I can pull right up to the signal so it is up at the top of my windscreen and I can see the lens colour, other drivers may stop 15/20 feet from the signal, depending on where you are of course, a main line, a passenger station, a marshalling yard, etc, etc. When I drive an American loco I always give myself plenty of room and pull up short so I can see the signal clearly, that might be 15 feet away, but, as you generally have a nose on the vast majority of your diesel locomotives, especially, a Snoot Nose which are very long, rather than a flat front to our locos such as a Class 66 like we have across the pond, I cannot get right up close to the signal for fear of a SPAD, it all depends on how sensitive the signalling is, if you understand, it's all a bit of trial and error and how our wonderful scenario writers have designed their activities for us all to play with.
Cheerz. Steve.
JohnS wrote:I've been actuating after my application for 13 years. Never knew I was supposed to do it the other way around. I've only had one derailment as an engineer shoving into a yard track. Bad ties and the rail rolled. I guess I never put much thought into the brakes as far as what to do first. I wonder if there is a difference between the electronic brakes and the old air style?
JohnS wrote:Ah now it makes sense. Thanks for explaining
BNSFdude wrote:JohnS wrote:Ah now it makes sense. Thanks for explaining
No problem. I think a lot of the rules they make for us are dumb, so I'm the type to look for "why?"
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